Classics always remain classics, and the combination of black and white will always be relevant in everything: architecture, art, painting on fabric, interior decoration. This also includes embroidery with black floss threads on a white canvas. The history of black embroidery, its origins are very rooted in the mists of time. In floor coverings, mosaics, and finishing elements, a variety of black geometric patterns have been observed for quite a long time. Samples of black embroidery are found throughout Europe. It is known that in ancient Greece, Rome and other ancient cultures, embroidery of this type was known. Also, such embroidery is traditional for the Slavs.

History of black work embroidery

Despite the fact that black embroidery reached particular popularity during the reign of Henry VIII, it was known even before the Tudor era. Catherine of Aragon contributed to her popularity when she arrived in England in 1501 at the Tudor court. Catherine of Aragon was the daughter of King Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain. Initially, Catherine was the wife of Arthur, who was the eldest son of Henry VII, but he soon died because of which the marriage was declared invalid. Catherine marries again, but this time to Henry VIII, Arthur’s younger brother. The reign of Henry VIII was very interesting and full of various events. His wife Catherine held influence at court and was queen for 25 years. She was a passionate admirer of the “Spanish work”, which in turn aroused genuine and lively interest among the ladies of the court.

So, thanks to Catherine, this technique became very widespread and remained popular for 125 years. However, in 1554, Spain and everything Spanish in England became, to put it mildly, not very popular, or, one might even say, it was banned. This is due to the fact that it was in this year that Henry VIII and Catherine divorced. After these events, the name “Spanish work” was replaced by “black embroidery”, in fact, it is under this name that we now know this embroidery technique. In Spain, this embroidery technique became popular in the 15th and 16th centuries, especially the Moorish of North Africa, who dominated Spain for more than 800 years, influenced its development. They were expelled only in 1492 by Catherine’s parents, Ferdinand and Isabella. Such a long the presence of the Moors in Spain led to the fact that the Muslim culture became partly Spanish. Catherine, like many other ladies, was very fond of embroidery in this technique. Such a close interweaving of cultures – Spanish and Muslim – influenced the fact that the principles inherent in Muslim designs (symmetry) in weaving, embroidery, carpet making. All this can be perfectly seen if we turn to the samples of black embroidery from the Tudor period.

However, over time, Spain had a certain influence on the designs that were used for black embroidery. These drawings from time to time receive a freer interpretation. Separate fruits, figures, begin to be filled with geometric patterns, this gives them the effect of lace. Basically, the patterns that were embroidered in this technique were used to decorate cuffs, sleeves, collars, bed linen. In order to somehow enliven black and white embroidery, metal threads were often used.

16th century, reign of Elizabeth. Black embroidery is becoming very popular again. If we turn to the portraits of that time, we can see that the nobility wore costumes that were decorated with black embroidery. Unfortunately, no samples of fabric embroidered in this technique have been preserved. This is explained by the fact that at that time people lived in very unsanitary conditions, and the soap for washing clothes was made from very dubious ingredients. Such soap destroyed the fabric very much, which means that it can be assumed that washing was not a very popular activity. This is especially true for the costumes, which were quite chic and dressed for various receptions. And if we talk about the clothes of less wealthy people, then they are also poorly preserved, and only light areas on the fabric or holes can tell us that they also decorated clothes with embroidery. The embroidery on their clothes was poorly preserved due to the fact that the silk for embroidery, which was supplied from Holland, was very expensive for them. Therefore, they had to dye the threads themselves. For this, a mixture of the following ingredients was used: elderberry bark, sulfuric acid and crushed walnut shells. Such a mixture was color stable, but extremely caustic, destroying the fibers of the fabric. Also, the fabric was very strongly destroyed by various oils and dirt that appeared on the fabric during its socks.

Since in Tudor times only people of noble birth could wear lace, it is easy to guess that for people of the lower classes, black embroidery was a great alternative to lace. Over time, the textile industry developed and could offer threads of completely different colors. In such conditions, black embroidery was gradually forgotten. However, later, in the 20-30s of the XX century, it was again remembered. Then she faded back into the background again. And already in the 60s of the XX century, it gained a second wind. Geometric figures began to be used more freely, the depth of tone was conveyed, the structure was emphasized, threads of a different color began to be added to black threads.

Black work embroidery is popular
Interest in this embroidery technique does not decrease even now. There are a lot of books on black work embroidery, a lot of patterns, a lot of sets for sale. On the Internet, you can find entire forums where lovers of this particular embroidery gather or sites that are dedicated to black work embroidery. And all this is not surprising, because such embroidery is very elegant, original and charming. It is not at all difficult to embroider it, and the result will delight you or your friends, whom you will present with your beautiful work created in the black work technique.